I have been going to Graduate Fashion Week for ten years now, first as a student, then graduate, now as a 'professional' (whatever that means!), and I love the electricity which crackles through the place throughout the event. To be honest, it still evokes all the same feelings - excitement, elation, fear(!) - now as it did when I graduated; I find it hugely inspirational. The more established in the industry really are behind the event and I hope that the students and graduates coming through can see and feel that, as standing on the outskirts of the industry it can be a somewhat daunting prospect deciding which path to set out on.
While yesterday was taken over by perusing the Royal College of Art's SHOW ONE, today will be given over to Graduate Fashion Week, as will a lot of this week, as the event runs til Thursday (June 12). I will be there later today, not least because my old college UCCA Epsom hosts its catwalk show, and hope to be blogging about all the agenda-setting collections and final major projects that the 53 (count em!!) colleges will be showcasing. This year, three of the colleges are from overseas - France's Institute Francais and Esmod International, and also The Netherlands' Amsterdam Fashion Institute - so will be interested to see where UK colleges differ, and where the similarities lie. I wonder whether we might see the GFW formula reworked for other countries at some point in the future - certainly it's a pretty unique event.
//// New service supports fashion industry newbies:
Is good to see that Fashion Monitor has launched Fashion Monitor Workshop - its free career website for those wanting to get a head start in the industry. The team has collaborated very closely with Terry Mansfield, who chairs the GFW committee, and June Barker, who runs the event, to create the add-on service, which will offer answers to all the questions buzzing around the mind of students, graduates and those seeking to establish themselves in the industry. I remember the leap from the cosseting college studio environment to the 'real world' and while the path has been extremely engaging and exciting, it has also been hard slog all the way too, and it is good to have as many places as possible that you can throw questions at in the challenging first few years.
//// So I will be attempting to catch at least some of the 22 catwalk shows taking place between yesterday and Wednesday, and will definitely be marking down the Gala Show, previewing the best of the collections, on Wednesday evening. Supermodel Claudia Schiffer and ELLE's Lorraine Candy have confirmed as guest judges for the awards which are presented on the night, with a further name (an international designer) tbc on the panel, which is chaired by River Island MD Richard Bradbury. Will see if I can find that name today when am down there.
\\\\ In case you fancy checking out the 'stars of tomorrow':::
&&&& Graduate Fashion Week runs til June 11, with an Education Day taking place June 12. The location is Earls Court 2, and it is a ticketed event on all days.
&&&& The GFW Gala Show takes place this Wednesday, with a show at 5.30pm open to the public. Again, tickets only, so book in advance!
Worth checking out the GFW website for more info, opening times etc.
Showing posts with label Royal College of Art. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Royal College of Art. Show all posts
Monday, 9 June 2008
One SHOW to go to at the RCA
Eschewing the traditional all day barbecue, I hotfooted it down to the Royal College of Art's SHOW ONE yesterday, at the Kensington Gore site. The first installment of the post grad college's degree show series, the ten day exhibition previewed work from the Fine Art departments Painting, Photography and Printmaking, and Applied Art, which encompasses Ceramics and Glass, Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, Metalwork and Jewellery. In theory, you can buy pieces from the graduates, but that's someone else's theory as - quite rightly - it was out of my price bracket; so I had to be content with simple looking and was totally inspired by the amazing designs that were showcased there.
////Jewellery, silver smithing and the rest:
There was a broad range of jewellery, from avant garde takes on traditional styling to much more in-your-face interpretations of body adornment. Some designers in particular sprung out at me:::
+++ Gisele Ganne: for her macabre meets beauty, nature and death exxagerated body jewellery, including foam skulls studded with black sequins and silver pins, a trio forming a shoulder 'broach' inspired by the black widow, and a single skull the pendant of a necklace inspired by women of the Andaman Islands in the Bay of Bengal, who wear their husbands skulls. Her collection really hit the nail on the head of the current vogue for glamour with a dark, sometimes violent, edge.
+++ Megumi Sakamoto: whose eclesiastical references led to giant 'rose window' beads, in electroformed silver, which she formed into necklaces (reminded me of those holey ping pong balls); also her 'quiet belief' necklace, a extra-long chain of tiny silver crosses.
+++ Jaanika Pajuste: I think that this was for her fun, oh-so slightly kitsch references to cup cakes and pigs, which reminded me of my sister(!).
+++ Flora Vagi: her treatment of books - cutting butterfly and other shapes from hard back tomes and using both the negative and positive parts with cold enamel to make broaches and other objects - including quivering single sheet butterflies on treadlike wires - reminded me of Tom Philips' (sic?) graphic design bible The Humument.
+++ Maria Militsi: her incorporation of everyday, recognisable toy-like objects such as Barbie's strappy wedge shoes, and trucks, mixed with Marie Antoinette-like references, made an eclectic and intriguing collection. She has won the 'Overall Excellence' marque from Theo Fennell and I believe her collar stud and chain combos are stocked in b store, so no doubt she is a name we will be hearing more from.
+++ Frances Wadsworth-Jones: her butterfly clips - mini flocked bulldog clips with butterly wing shaped clasps and her 10m chain of interlocking ants, each 1 cm long and crawling in unison, were simple but effective; she took home the Conran Foundation Award 2008, as well as The Goldsmiths' Company Precious Metals Bursary Award 2008.
Jahyun Rita Baek: had taken perspex, or something similar, which to me had the feel of a contemporary and man-made motehr of pearl, and used it in 2d, flat form to create 2d shapes, eg. circles to create spheres, and in turn used these as the parts of necklaces, earrings etc.
+++ Nathalie Perneel: created necklaces of hexagonal forms in such delicate silver wire that they were barely discernible and really quite beautiful in their fragility.
... so I have more or less highlighted every jewellery-related exhibitor - oops! - I have tried to be as succinct as possible, but there was lots to get excited about!
//// Printmaking, Photography and the rest:
First thing about this, which I have noted at a few galleries recently, is how much photorealism is coming to the fore. Am sure that the Modern Painting at The Hayward may have had some hand in this, but there seems to be a desire for very tangible image-making? There were, again, so many artists of interest, but I tried to narrow it down by looking primarily at the figurative, and at the photography:::
+++ Dawn Woolley: I loved her self-portraiture; her work involved taking photographs of herself, which she then printed human-sized and posed, with a person, in often provocative, or rather intimate, situations. Clever, witty and also well-executed.
+++ Roel Paredaens: liked the simplicity of these black and white studies.
+++ Ruth Murray: these were darkly atmospheric paintings which (in my mind) evoked Victorian b-list novels, The Woman In White and the rest, but were resolutely of here and now.
... so let's just say that there was lots to see. These things are so subjective, but I felt that it was a good show, worth the trip and felt inspired by these present and future designers. Looking forward to part two later this month, which will include footwear and fashion accessories, and - natch - to the fashion show this Thursday.
\\\\Okay, so really I should have got there a little earlier, as SHOW ONE is now closed (hope my little overview gave a small flavour of it anyhow), but there's more so in case you're interested:
&&&& RCA SHOW FASHION is open to the public June 11 (ticketed event though so don't forget to call in advance!)...
&&&& RCA SHOW TWO takes place June 24 to July 5 (except July 4, when is closed). This is the one which includes fashion accessories and footwear, textiles and all the graphic-y type subjects...
&&&& RCA SHOW SCULPTURE is June 25 to July 5. Self-explanatory what you would see.
//// apart from SHOW FASHION, these are free events; SHOW TWO and FASHION are at KENSINGTON GORE; SCULPTURE is at Howie Street in Battersea. I guess check out the the RCA website for all the info.
////Jewellery, silver smithing and the rest:
There was a broad range of jewellery, from avant garde takes on traditional styling to much more in-your-face interpretations of body adornment. Some designers in particular sprung out at me:::
+++ Gisele Ganne: for her macabre meets beauty, nature and death exxagerated body jewellery, including foam skulls studded with black sequins and silver pins, a trio forming a shoulder 'broach' inspired by the black widow, and a single skull the pendant of a necklace inspired by women of the Andaman Islands in the Bay of Bengal, who wear their husbands skulls. Her collection really hit the nail on the head of the current vogue for glamour with a dark, sometimes violent, edge.
+++ Megumi Sakamoto: whose eclesiastical references led to giant 'rose window' beads, in electroformed silver, which she formed into necklaces (reminded me of those holey ping pong balls); also her 'quiet belief' necklace, a extra-long chain of tiny silver crosses.
+++ Jaanika Pajuste: I think that this was for her fun, oh-so slightly kitsch references to cup cakes and pigs, which reminded me of my sister(!).
+++ Flora Vagi: her treatment of books - cutting butterfly and other shapes from hard back tomes and using both the negative and positive parts with cold enamel to make broaches and other objects - including quivering single sheet butterflies on treadlike wires - reminded me of Tom Philips' (sic?) graphic design bible The Humument.
+++ Maria Militsi: her incorporation of everyday, recognisable toy-like objects such as Barbie's strappy wedge shoes, and trucks, mixed with Marie Antoinette-like references, made an eclectic and intriguing collection. She has won the 'Overall Excellence' marque from Theo Fennell and I believe her collar stud and chain combos are stocked in b store, so no doubt she is a name we will be hearing more from.
+++ Frances Wadsworth-Jones: her butterfly clips - mini flocked bulldog clips with butterly wing shaped clasps and her 10m chain of interlocking ants, each 1 cm long and crawling in unison, were simple but effective; she took home the Conran Foundation Award 2008, as well as The Goldsmiths' Company Precious Metals Bursary Award 2008.
Jahyun Rita Baek: had taken perspex, or something similar, which to me had the feel of a contemporary and man-made motehr of pearl, and used it in 2d, flat form to create 2d shapes, eg. circles to create spheres, and in turn used these as the parts of necklaces, earrings etc.
+++ Nathalie Perneel: created necklaces of hexagonal forms in such delicate silver wire that they were barely discernible and really quite beautiful in their fragility.
... so I have more or less highlighted every jewellery-related exhibitor - oops! - I have tried to be as succinct as possible, but there was lots to get excited about!
//// Printmaking, Photography and the rest:
First thing about this, which I have noted at a few galleries recently, is how much photorealism is coming to the fore. Am sure that the Modern Painting at The Hayward may have had some hand in this, but there seems to be a desire for very tangible image-making? There were, again, so many artists of interest, but I tried to narrow it down by looking primarily at the figurative, and at the photography:::
+++ Dawn Woolley: I loved her self-portraiture; her work involved taking photographs of herself, which she then printed human-sized and posed, with a person, in often provocative, or rather intimate, situations. Clever, witty and also well-executed.
+++ Roel Paredaens: liked the simplicity of these black and white studies.
+++ Ruth Murray: these were darkly atmospheric paintings which (in my mind) evoked Victorian b-list novels, The Woman In White and the rest, but were resolutely of here and now.
... so let's just say that there was lots to see. These things are so subjective, but I felt that it was a good show, worth the trip and felt inspired by these present and future designers. Looking forward to part two later this month, which will include footwear and fashion accessories, and - natch - to the fashion show this Thursday.
\\\\Okay, so really I should have got there a little earlier, as SHOW ONE is now closed (hope my little overview gave a small flavour of it anyhow), but there's more so in case you're interested:
&&&& RCA SHOW FASHION is open to the public June 11 (ticketed event though so don't forget to call in advance!)...
&&&& RCA SHOW TWO takes place June 24 to July 5 (except July 4, when is closed). This is the one which includes fashion accessories and footwear, textiles and all the graphic-y type subjects...
&&&& RCA SHOW SCULPTURE is June 25 to July 5. Self-explanatory what you would see.
//// apart from SHOW FASHION, these are free events; SHOW TWO and FASHION are at KENSINGTON GORE; SCULPTURE is at Howie Street in Battersea. I guess check out the the RCA website for all the info.
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