Putting on my festival face

Still on the festival tip, have decided to go all out and make a sartorial effort for Glasto this weekend, including actually putting some make-up on. This is mainly based on how rough I look in all the photos last year. I can't let myself fall so low again.

So quick pitstop into MAC after work today to pick up a luminescent Liquidlast Liner in Aqualine - a sparkling neon turquoise - to sport with my Paintpot (a creamy-eyeshadow) in Delft, a petrol blue metallic. Have the same liner in a gilt shade and it NEVER comes off, so in theory I can pass out in my sleeping bag and wake-up looking as fresh as a daisy (if daisy's wore full make-up). Am thinking dark, smoky blue eyes, ultra-wide electric eyeliner and - possible - a smattering of iridesccent glitter. Back to the Princess Sparkle persona of my university days. Lush.

Oh, and, very excited to learn that if you take six empty plastic or glass MAC products back to the shop, they give you a FREE lipstick of your choice. That's what I call recycling at its best. I'm saving.

Festival goggles - Rayban or not to??

I feel that I have been neglectful of late; almost six days have passed but no post. My whole other life was beginning to go to the dogs, and all the excitement of degree shows had addled my brain, so forgive me.

So yesterday, the shopping revved up again, as I found myself preparing for festival season in true Brit style - undertaking the ominous task of buying suitable waterproof. Have I mentioned that at last years Glastonbury the weather was so bad that I cried. Well I did. It was horrible. Of course, yes, I could've eschewed Glasto altogether, what with it being year of the 'boutique festival' after all, but it's all for charity and the kids in Nicaragua need every penny they can get.
Let's just say that in my Craghoppers Aquadry - men's style not women's as they were in lame-O colours - I look like Ian Brown gone female. I reckon I can style it up mind, and found myself in Toppers (ie. Topshop) trying on dozens of pairs of cheap sunglasses. I have a fantasy that I own a pair of wayfarers, but then forget whether that was because I believe everything I see and/or read, or whether it's because I actually like them. I think I do, and I think it's because it reminds me of every cool 80s film - Lost Boys, Pretty in Pink, and on and on - and also of my mum and her cool friends who, c. 1985, all looked like the stars of those films but cooler still.

Feel like I should have taken a few more pics!!

Barbican stages The House of Viktor & Rolf

I have just checked out The House of Viktor & Rolf exhibition at the Barbican, which opens tomorrow and runs til September 21. The fashion-meets-art Dutch duo were present, and will no doubt be presiding over a fabulous affair at tonight's private view, which I couldn't blag my way into - waah! These guys always make the headlines for their show-stopping looks, and what this showcase really brought home was how much went into each of these looks, but also how much of it was, ultimately, commercially viable and exciting, wearable fashion.
The two floor exhibition (I nearly missed the second floor!) delves into the past 15 years of the designers' work, from 1996's Launch, a scaled-down workshop, catwalk show and photoshoot and shop, isnpired by the atelier dolls of the post WW2 period (you may have seen at the V&A's Age of Couture?) and fake concept perfume, via the 2004 pink and black, be-ribboned and bows collection which promoted Flowerbomb, their first fragrance, through to the most recent catwalk extravaganzas. For any fashion fans, this is absolutely unmissable - I loved it.
A focal point of the exhibition is a six metre high dolls' house which reminded me of the royal dolls' houses in the RijksMuseum in Amsterdam (and thinking about it that is probably were they were inspired, given they are Dutch!) - each room was inhabited by porcelain dolls in the Victorian style, with glass eyes and real hair styled by a hairdresser, each wearing a miniature version of one of the Viktor & Rolf designs. Some were arranged in tableaux, such as the Flowerbomb collection on ladders a la the famous Dior models portrait of 1957, and The Fashion Show models, with their personal catwalk rigging. Have you read the Wolves of Willoughby Chase by Joan Aitken? Let's just say that this house brought part of that story to life - it's more or less the ultimate dolls house for the spoilt little rich girl.
Other than the dolls' house, a mixture of installation and life-sized mannequins with doll heads were used to display the actual garments, usually accompanied by a film of the associated catwalk shows; this included Maggie Rizer in the Russian Doll collection, still on arotating stand, like a music box ballerina, being dressed, layer after layer, from a hessian and gilt slip through to a padded cape which obliterated her form. I was transfixed by a film of a collection inspired by Yves Klein blue, in which increasing amounts of the blue screen blue were incorporated into outfits, and images - snowscapes, city ringroads, coral reefs - projected onto the models' bodies.
I could wax lyrical about the exhibition all day, but I won't, instead I urge you to sample it for yourself - this is the first UK exhibition from Viktor & Rolf and is a perfect opportunity to ensure that you have mastered all the basics of their approach and are ready for whatever they throw at us next.

Central Saint Martins throws open degree show doors

Central Saint Martins was officially my last pitstop on my whirlwind tour of graduate shows last week. On Friday, June 13, the college hosted the private view for its fashion and fine arts show at its Charing Cross Road building, which is now open to the public.
It is shameful to admit it, but I hadn't previously visited the hallowed halls of this building, which sweep the visitor up into its excitement. The space had a brilliant, electric vibe and I can see whay Louise Wilson, who is Course Director of the MA, is so aghast at their impending move to King's Cross. It made me want to go back to college, and soon, just to have had the experience of working in its shabby studios and stashing my work in its school-like lockers.
The work itself was high calibre, with some of the menswear graduates really standing out for their illustration and minutely observed flats - I always appreciate well-executed technical drawings! And the fashion communication course was ultra-inspiring, and a reminder of how vibrant and challenging publishing can be.
University of the Arts London hosts a Graduate Week, June 30-July 4, to offer advice and support to all students about to embark on their careers. I was very excited to be given one as in my mind it was because I looked like one of the students, but in reality was probably because everyone was being given them (I still choose to add it to my bank of ID-ing situations...). There are lots of criticism for some of the university's courses not offering enough support, but this course, which runs just as the graduates have got their heads around no longer being in education seems timely and useful.

Ravensbourne's Jessica Au takes Gold at River Island GFW Gala

Last night the UK fashion industry's cognoscenti decended on Earl's Court 2 for the Graduate Fashion Week Gala, the 17th annual awards ceremony for graduating fashion students. Caryn Franklin, probably one of my formative fashion inspirations, hosted the event, at which River Island CEO Richard Bradbury confirmed a further year's sponsorship of GFW - confirming my earlier blog at the beginning of the week (you heard it hear first, fashion punters!).
Ravensbourne, which had gained plaudits for its show on Sunday, scooped two awards in the form of Jessica Au, who won both the top accolade of the River Island Gold Award and the Zandra Rhodes Catwalk Textiles Award for her menswear collection of wool and satin tailored suits and separates printed with clashing, blown-up floral forms in pinks, purples, reds and whites - kind of a radioactive Paul Smith pushed to its limits.
The winner of the Womenswear Award was Nabil El Nayal, from Manchester School of Art, whose monochrome collection of voluminous Victoriana nightgown, blouses and dresses, as well as high waisted tux trousers in chiffon, satin and cotton had been my personal favourite at that college's show.
Ria Thomas, of Nottingham Trent University, picked up the Pringle of Scotland Visionary Knitwear Award, and quite rightly so - her open knit dresses in sea blue-greys and cream were ultra-sexy, body conscious and innovative, and felt v. pleased with myself for having picked out another winner.
The Menswear Award went to Domingo Rodriguez, who had played with textures and transparencies in his slim-cut tailored collection in black and grey chiffon, knit, leather.
Notably, this year the British Fashion Council came on board as a sponsor, presenting the BFC Creative Cutting Award, developed to encourage technical skills among fashion students - this was won by Tim Rhys Evans, Manchester School of Art, whose toile and final piece was brought on stage to demonstrate his working method.
The fashion promotion and media awards continue to go from strength to strength, as the work entered gets better every year, and the winners are (deep breath!!): Strategic Marketing Award - Thomas Hopkins, University of Central Lancashire; Creative Marketing Award - Emily Bell, Northumbria, Fashion Marketing; Dalziel + Pow Stand Design Award - Northumbria, Fashion Marketing; Jon Adam Portfolio Award - Poppy Diver, Kingston; Society of Dyers and Colourists Award - Laura Fauvel, Ravensbourne; Mulberry Accessories Award - Sarah Kennedy, Northumbria, Fashion; Fashion Innovation Award - Thomas Rothery, Manchester School of Art; National Magazine 'First Word' Journalism Award - Jennifer Weibking, UCCA Epsom (which delivered all the nominees in this category!); and Media and Design Award - Lesley Schofield, University of Salford. Phew! Make a note of those names and these should be the names we are looking out for in the future. I made a note of Thomas Rothery's details, as his collection was ultra-bike friendly, and perfect for the bike catwalk show being planned later this year (the one I was wittering on about yesterday).
A key focus of the GFW team has been to underscore the professionalism of graduates' work, making sure that the global industry sits up, takes notice, and gives as many a job as possible. Certainly, last night's show exuded professionalism, and I have no doubt that each of the 16 design finalists have every chance to make it, as do the finalists in the fashion promotion and media awards, which were presented before the catwalk show. Before this, the potential of the finalists was highlighted with a mini showcase of former GFW graduates' work, with a look from the collections of: Julien Macdonald - 1993, Brighton; Amy Molyneaux, PPQ - 1999, University of Central Lancashire; Thea Bragazzi and Justin Thornton, Preen - 1993, University of Central Lancashire and Winchester, respectively; Richard Nicol - 2002, Central Saint Martins; Giles Deacon - 1992, Central Saint Martins; and Christopher Bailey - 1991, Westminster (he was the first ever GFW Designer of the Year, factfinders!). I really, sincerely hope that some of the names who won yesterday might be in a position to take place in a similar showcase, five, 10, 20 years down the line.
At the champagne reception and the aftershow party, the space was a buzz with positive feeling about the direction that GFW is heading, and also the new venue and iniatives at the event; no doubt it will continue to evolve on the same trajectory.
\\\\ PS. note for diary - bit premature possibly, but - next year's Graduate Fashion Week is set for June 7-11, 2009, same place.

GFW catwalk show: Manchester Metropolitan University

This was the last show of the day and, despite it being a consistently excellent course, I was surprised to see so many empty seats as I would have thought lots more would want to check it out. Perhaps there is call to start the shows earlier in the day - although am sure that after 18 years GFW know what they are doing!
This was another show, like Nottingham Trent, which has a high degree of professionalism. That said, I felt it had more of the humour that was slightly lacking from NTU.
...design highlights to follow...

GFW catwalk show: Edinburgh College of Art

Edinburgh is one of the new kids on the GFW block to some extent, having joined the line up within the last seven years. I am not very familiar with the college, but my understanding is that the fashion course is derived from a strong textiles background - fitting, given the strength of the Scottish textiles industry - and has strong links with its fellow art courses, in inspiration if not fact. It is the only Scottish college to show at the event and takes full advantage of the country's rich textiles tradition - certainly Scotland is keen to promote its wares at LFW, so I imagine (and would hope) that it is also a big supporter of its fashion graduates.
...design highlights to follow...

GFW catwalk show: Nottingham Trent University

Nottingham Trent University, despite consistently churning out A-grade players, remains resolutely under the radar. Perhaps it is the London-centric attitude of the industry, I don't know, but it seems undeserved; interestingly I had met a 2007 NTU graduate at the Fashion Fusion Awards, whose work (and that of a fellow graduate) was superlative; both had found it difficult to make the step into the capital's fashion industry and had had to return north to make some money and get more experience before giving another try.
This show was show stopper after show stopper. There were no chinks in the armour of this showcase. The only downside to this, that I could see, was that with the professionalism there was no room for playfulness; until fairly recently graduates were criticised for the lack of reality in their design approach, but arguably this is what also makes the heart rise while watching graduate shows. Each collection was fabulous, wearable, tangible, but I would have liked one or two that made a strike out into sillliness, even if just a smattering.
With each graduate so proficient, so slick, I didn't envy any of the selection panel for the show, or for the gala as I would imagine it to be a hard task indeed.
...design highlights to follow...

GFW catwalk show: UWE, Bristol

Another of my alma maters, UWE Bristol holds a place of affection in my heart as it is where I undertook my Art Foundation - a fabulous taster of university life without any of the responsibilities! When I was there, UWE was not the first fashion course you'd turn to for furthering your career, but in the last four-five years it has really turned that around, producing work of a high calibre and innovative stance, winning awards and all sorts.
I still find it bizarre that my home town should have such a vibrant fashion community - despite the fact that Bristol is hardly sleepy backwater, when it's your place of origin you'll always feel a bit like it is - but have to say that UWE really does indicate that there's a lot of excitement going on.
...design highlights to follow...

GFW catwalk show: UCCA Epsom

As mentioned on Monday, Epsom is my old stomping ground (at least, as far as university goes), so I always make a point of checking out what they're up to, and make sure I've got a good spot at the catwalk show. Situated a stone's throw (if you call 30 minutes on a train a throw's length) from London, Epsom is nevertheless a market town and have to admit on arrival was underwhelmed by the location. Since I graduated the town has had something of a boomtime, but if it's still as it was when I left, the upside of going to college somewhere like Epsom is that the camaraderie between students is tight (not least because if there's a party everyone's there) and the lecturers attentive without mollycoddling.
The catwalk show presented a good mix, from the more stark to the frivolous, but the cut, finish and attention to detail was pretty consistent. Every year, the textile element of the design becomes more accomplished -something which I feel is an imperative of good design.
...design highlights to follow...

More on Graduate Fashion Week...

I came home from Graduate Fashion Week laden down with various paraphenalia picked up during the course of day three of the event. I am now proud owner of a new perfume, a toothbrush, a sketchbook, a calico bag (yet another!), Jelly Belly beans (yum!), and various magazines and brochures. All of this is exciting material, but I can't help think that all the money spent should be injected more directly into supporting the teaching and content of the courses; while, to play devil's advocate, the other part of me know how important it is that the courses and their students are marketed as innovatively as possible, especially in this era of excess information. Speaking of which, I found fame in the GFW Daily - as am featured in the vox pop section for the Tuesday edition...!
The hitherto secret international designer joining the GFW judging panel is Julien Macdonald; it will be interesting to see how his input into the process affects the outcome of the Gala Awards, taking place tonight. I have a golden ticket so will let you know all tomorrow. Perhaps he is scouting for fresh talent for his own label, given that late last year he signed a big business deal with a new backer?
I bumped into my cousin, who is cycling aficionado extraordinaire and has her own fashion label for biking fashionistas, Cyclodelic. She was at GFW scouting for graduating designers who might be fellow fans of the bike and of fashion, and interested in cycling catwalk show she's planning for later this year, following the success of the Wheels and Heels, which took place during the last LFW, and which she worked on. It's all still early stages, but she has big plans for the event and no doubt will pull them off - I certainly hope to be reporting updates here on Fashion Popcorn!!
I very unfortunately missed Liverpool John Moores and Birmingham City University's joint show, but the reports were very favourable and those who did make it in were impressed by the collections that were showcased; certainly what I could see through the door window looked interesting. Both are working on raising their profile so no doubt we will see something of an evolution over the next few years. I made it to each of the further shows, so all in all have managed seven shows in the past two days - a respectable third of all shows which (in my mind!) makes me well qualified to have an opinion on the event.

GFW catwalk show: University of Westminster

Westminster, as far as I can ascertain, is a hot ticket at Graduate Fashion Week, having introduced the likes of Christopher Bailey, Stuart Vevers and Katie Hillier to the fashion world. Many of these industry names continue to support the course, returning to assist with selections, judge awards and simply offer insights to current students of their working life; indeed, Bailey and Markus Lupfer were ensconced on the front row as this year's show kicked off.
Westminster is noted for its professionalism, its outsized graduate lookbook-cum-style magazine a case in point; in some courses this can lead to a dearth of humour in collections, but this show seemed to keep the balance of professionalism and experimentalism. Interestingly, the GFW executive committee was involved in the selection process this year, which may be why the show was more eclectic in some respects: I think perhaps there were some collections chosen for impact that might not otherwise have been in keeping with the careful image the course has been cultivating.
//// Awen Teifi: created linen garments in neutral colours, accessorised with flexible wood veneer collars and shoulder embellishments.
//// Stephanie Norris: white cotton garments supporting overlayers of evenly-cut fringing created the look of fluidity with structure.
//// Krishna Chavda: his techno schoolboys play cricket offered neoprene, slim fit playing shirts with blazers and jersey separates in a mix of old-school colours and neons.
//// Emma Griffiths: this was my stand-out collection from the show - her look was military inspired, replete with mini bearskins. The body-con, tailored separates, for example drainpipe trousers made from interwoven wevbbing, contrasted with long hair capes created a dark, gothic and strong look.

GFW catwalk: University of Northampton

Back in March, alongside Gavin Douglas and Company's Kirsty Hathaway, I was on the panel of judges for the inaugural Fashion Fusion Awards, which took place in Birmingham and was the brainchild of two recent fashion promotion graduates. I was impressed with their tenacity and ability to pull together a full house event that attracted the sponsorship of Harvey Nichols Mailbox, among others.
This may seem a diversion from the GFW cause, although arguably it demonstrates what can be achieved once a graduate graduates, but the reason I mention it is that the winner, Tanveer Ahmad, was a 2007 graduate from Northampton; Gavin Douglas also trained at Northampton, fact people. I am not sure how much his collection progressed between June last year and the awards, but his collection was a real blow the cobwebs away showstopper - all black, it explored the hijab in a truly contemporary way, through garments, accesssories and styling, creating look after look that you would die to have in your wardrobe. Gavin Douglas is currently looking into getting Tanveer down to London to work with him in his studio; if he can persevere and find his foothold, I have no doubt he could be very successful and look forward to hearing how he progresses. His collection really sets the bar for what a great student can achieve in their show, so naturally was interested to see what the college could come up with this year.
Overall, the show was pretty strong - I mean, this is somewhat subjective, but I could see a lot had been put into the development of the collections. Gavin Douglas had made the trip up to Northampton to help with the selection for the catwalk, and I can see some of his influence coming through, as there were strong elements of tailoring and structured garments which Gavin seems to favour.

//// Victoria Pangbourne (above): created a sharp, all-black collection, hard-edged femininity; it was a collection for grown-ups, which is something of rarity at GFW - which is fair enough, given this is the graduates opportunity to experiment, yet at the same time should be encouraged given the growth of this sector of the market. Victoria got it right - with enough exxagerated, slick detail to make the looks ultra-covetable.

//// Catherine Neville: to the crescendo of Michael Jackson's Dirty Diana, Catherine's fitted leather biker jackets with stiffly frilled shoulders which framed the head like an Elizabethan ruff was stand out; the gold was mixed with vivid hues - silk cut purple, emerald green, cyclamen pink - which lent the collection a dynamic air.

//// Jody Parchment (above, left): This was one of the footwear and accessories graduate collections and didn't fail to capture imagination - dual colour platform stacks in neon brights, coupled with glossy, oversized bags in hyper hyper fruit colours drew admiring glances.

//// Michelle Jackson (above, right): this textiles for fashion graduate created some fantastic geometric, eye-popping monochrome prints, which strutted down the catwalk in the form of bodycon basics.

//// Craig Fellows (below): I loved this tongue in cheek take on ultra-feminity, by another textiles for fashion graduate. The low-key pastels, off-set with bright blue, made flouncy garments which really highlighted the qualities of the print and fabrics.

GFW catwalk: Somerset College

In the last few years, Somerset College has come on leaps and bounds and it is fair to say that GFW attendees are sitting up and taking much more notice of this Taunton-based FE-turned-HE college.
My impression of Somerset is that it has grown up from a textile-rich course, and this is to its benefit, as the more textile-aware a designer is, the better they can apply it to their designs.
The collections were, in general, coherent and fluid, with colour, texture and silhouette carefully considered. If I chose one, I would say that Chloe Marsh was my stand-out collection...
//// Chloe Marsh: took and ethically-conscience approach to her designs, using organic and Fairtrade fabrics; her garments were cut to highlight her digital printwork, sunburst splashes of vibrant purple and orange, with black, which ensured a very contemporary and fresh collection.
//// Jennifer Marston: the peacock colours and cocooning silhouette, and the layers of fabric from lightweight to heavy knit.
//// Nicola Davies: using opulent wine red, navy and gold, loved the exxagerated shoulders which lent a masculine edge to some very womanly cuts.
//// Debra Smitham: this was lighthearted, fun, which can be a rarity at GFW as everyone has gone so pro these days(!). Cute mini playsuits, puff sleeve blouses, pantaloon hotpants, over-sized buttons - sailor meets 50s pin-up.
//// Rebecca Nuria Hamnett: I liked this for its multiple green tones and its fluidity - it was very cohesive and for that reason pleasing to watch(!).
//// Samantha Payne: a mention for this one dress collection - a trapeze mini dress of fragile layers of lace created by laser cutting and print, a perfect rushed bride, the model presented a bouquet to PM's wife, Sarah Brown at the end of the show. Nice touch.

Sarah Brown pops into Graduate Fashion Week

As I blogged yesterday, Graduate Fashion Week holds a special place in my heart (in a non-schmaltzy way, you understand!), and so I rocked up to day two of this year's event to see how it was settling into its new home, Earls Court 2.
I arrived just ten minutes before Sarah Brown, wife of Gordon, was scheduled for a photocall; she attended at least one catwalk show - saw her presented with a handmade, lace bouquet at the end of Somerset's - and did a walk about. I am guessing that it may have had something to do with the government's drive to encourage skills in the fashion industry, but equally she does a lot of charitable work so it could have been something to do with that... maybe I should have been a bit more inquisitive! Will be looking out for more unexpected visitors over the course of the next two days...
The event's main sponsor, to the tune of about £500k, is River Island, which was coming to the end of its current contract this year - I was pleased to hear that they've confirmed at least a further year's sponsorship for GFW, as this kind of support is absolutely vital for the continuation of the event. I was also interested to note that Sarah Walters, who as brand manager at New Look had helped move the brand past value retailer to fashion player, is now with River Island and has been for the past six months; it suggests that there may be some interesting initiatives in the pipeline from RI, so will be watching closely...
Having been held in Battersea Park Arena for the last few years, GFW had been a little difficult to get to, although the location did mitigate for some of this, and the tents erred to the sweltering, over-crowded side. As Earls Court 2 is a massive hangar style space the layout and feel of the event was very different indeed - it was a Marmite issue - some loved the better layout of stands, additional space, the air con, and the convenient location; others liked the intimacy of the former location, the park. I think, on balance that most felt it an improvement, and that's a tricky one to achieve with so many people to please.
I made it to three shows: Somerset, Northampton, Westminster. UCCA Epsom is actually today, so that one's for later. It is interesting watching the common themes which crop up across all shows, but some are executed so stylishly, some are great, but still need some extra push to take it to the next level. I am going to be checking out the GFW Daily, both for the reports and also because had my piccie taken by the Editor, Piers, so might make an appearance - fame at last!

Surf brand Finisterre wins fashion category at Observer Ethical Awards 2008

I know that the third Observer Ethical Awards took place last week (at the Hempel, no less - sponsors Ecover must have come up trumps there?), but wanted to draw attention to the winners of this year's fashion category, as well as the runners up. They were chosen by a seriously illustrious panel of judges, which included Elle MacPherson, Wayne Hemingway, David De Rothschild, Dilys Williams (Director of LCF's Centre for Sustainable Fashion) and Jo Wood...
//// Finisterre:
This under the radar surf brand was set up in 2002 by a guy called Tom Kay, conceived to offer environmentally-aware, affordable and straightforward surf gear. I hadn't come across them before (the team also includes designer Tom Podkolinski and marketing director Ernie Capbert), so checked out the website and they produce waterproofs, bodywarmers and merino wool sweatshirts - basically the gear you need for keeping warm on the beach or out and about, in simple but clever designs. They use recyclable or renewable fibres and reportedly run their operation 'from their surfer caravans in St Agnes'. I have been to St Agnes and I can tell you, if this is the case, they must have a lush lifestyle indeed. I thought it was interesting that they were picked over the two runners up, Izzy Lane and From Somewhere, as Finisterre is much more raw and utilitarian, where the other two are designer labels. It makes sense as, if people are going to try and incoporate ethical purchasing into their everyday lives, there have to be as many options as possible across the market in its broadest sense.
///// Izzy Lane: offers wool and organic cotton separates produced from sustainable sources, in the case of the wool, from sheep ethically reared in the UK. Each range's name is linked to its source, eg. the woold ranges to rare breed sheep such as Wensleydale or Shetland. The garments are reasonably priced, given their provenance and design content, and are classic garments such as cardigans, sweaters, tweed jackets and skirts, but they have been worked in such a way that they are very right, very contemporary. The collection is absolutely spot on for the tweed look which seems set to be very popular this summer; and with festivals and British weather meaning woollies are a must, the stylish jumpers would be perfect to bung in the rucksack (remember: wool is warm even when wet!).
///// From Somewhere: I met Orsola de Castro, one of the founders of this label, at LFW's first ever Estethica event, which Orsola helped curate. She is a woman of clear vision who, back in 1997 and with fellow founder Filippo Ricci, saw that the future lay in sustainable and ethical fashion. Her recycled clothes and ethos were among the first of the current wave to capture popular interest.
... And apart from the fashion category, all the others made interesting reading. Shout out to Ken Livingstone, who won in the politician category - I know that he is a Marmite man, but myself, am loving the things that he did for cyclists and the rest and would have liked to see him complete his projects. Online retailer went to Natural Collection, stockists of an ever-expanding repertoire of ethical products, and Business went to Divine Chocolate, which has been improving its formulas in the decade it has been in business - I tried some samples at the Camden Green Fair and am sure that it is better than it has ever tasted! Will also be checking out bed-maker Warren Evans, who won local retailer - am sure he (if it's a real person) is the same one who advertises in Big Issue all the time?!?

Graduate Fashion Week kicks off at Earls Court

I have been going to Graduate Fashion Week for ten years now, first as a student, then graduate, now as a 'professional' (whatever that means!), and I love the electricity which crackles through the place throughout the event. To be honest, it still evokes all the same feelings - excitement, elation, fear(!) - now as it did when I graduated; I find it hugely inspirational. The more established in the industry really are behind the event and I hope that the students and graduates coming through can see and feel that, as standing on the outskirts of the industry it can be a somewhat daunting prospect deciding which path to set out on.
While yesterday was taken over by perusing the Royal College of Art's SHOW ONE, today will be given over to Graduate Fashion Week, as will a lot of this week, as the event runs til Thursday (June 12). I will be there later today, not least because my old college UCCA Epsom hosts its catwalk show, and hope to be blogging about all the agenda-setting collections and final major projects that the 53 (count em!!) colleges will be showcasing. This year, three of the colleges are from overseas - France's Institute Francais and Esmod International, and also The Netherlands' Amsterdam Fashion Institute - so will be interested to see where UK colleges differ, and where the similarities lie. I wonder whether we might see the GFW formula reworked for other countries at some point in the future - certainly it's a pretty unique event.
//// New service supports fashion industry newbies:
Is good to see that Fashion Monitor has launched Fashion Monitor Workshop - its free career website for those wanting to get a head start in the industry. The team has collaborated very closely with Terry Mansfield, who chairs the GFW committee, and June Barker, who runs the event, to create the add-on service, which will offer answers to all the questions buzzing around the mind of students, graduates and those seeking to establish themselves in the industry. I remember the leap from the cosseting college studio environment to the 'real world' and while the path has been extremely engaging and exciting, it has also been hard slog all the way too, and it is good to have as many places as possible that you can throw questions at in the challenging first few years.
//// So I will be attempting to catch at least some of the 22 catwalk shows taking place between yesterday and Wednesday, and will definitely be marking down the Gala Show, previewing the best of the collections, on Wednesday evening. Supermodel Claudia Schiffer and ELLE's Lorraine Candy have confirmed as guest judges for the awards which are presented on the night, with a further name (an international designer) tbc on the panel, which is chaired by River Island MD Richard Bradbury. Will see if I can find that name today when am down there.

\\\\ In case you fancy checking out the 'stars of tomorrow':::
&&&& Graduate Fashion Week runs til June 11, with an Education Day taking place June 12. The location is Earls Court 2, and it is a ticketed event on all days.
&&&& The GFW Gala Show takes place this Wednesday, with a show at 5.30pm open to the public. Again, tickets only, so book in advance!
Worth checking out the GFW website for more info, opening times etc.

One SHOW to go to at the RCA

Eschewing the traditional all day barbecue, I hotfooted it down to the Royal College of Art's SHOW ONE yesterday, at the Kensington Gore site. The first installment of the post grad college's degree show series, the ten day exhibition previewed work from the Fine Art departments Painting, Photography and Printmaking, and Applied Art, which encompasses Ceramics and Glass, Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, Metalwork and Jewellery. In theory, you can buy pieces from the graduates, but that's someone else's theory as - quite rightly - it was out of my price bracket; so I had to be content with simple looking and was totally inspired by the amazing designs that were showcased there.
////Jewellery, silver smithing and the rest:
There was a broad range of jewellery, from avant garde takes on traditional styling to much more in-your-face interpretations of body adornment. Some designers in particular sprung out at me:::
+++ Gisele Ganne: for her macabre meets beauty, nature and death exxagerated body jewellery, including foam skulls studded with black sequins and silver pins, a trio forming a shoulder 'broach' inspired by the black widow, and a single skull the pendant of a necklace inspired by women of the Andaman Islands in the Bay of Bengal, who wear their husbands skulls. Her collection really hit the nail on the head of the current vogue for glamour with a dark, sometimes violent, edge.
+++ Megumi Sakamoto: whose eclesiastical references led to giant 'rose window' beads, in electroformed silver, which she formed into necklaces (reminded me of those holey ping pong balls); also her 'quiet belief' necklace, a extra-long chain of tiny silver crosses.
+++ Jaanika Pajuste: I think that this was for her fun, oh-so slightly kitsch references to cup cakes and pigs, which reminded me of my sister(!).
+++ Flora Vagi: her treatment of books - cutting butterfly and other shapes from hard back tomes and using both the negative and positive parts with cold enamel to make broaches and other objects - including quivering single sheet butterflies on treadlike wires - reminded me of Tom Philips' (sic?) graphic design bible The Humument.
+++ Maria Militsi: her incorporation of everyday, recognisable toy-like objects such as Barbie's strappy wedge shoes, and trucks, mixed with Marie Antoinette-like references, made an eclectic and intriguing collection. She has won the 'Overall Excellence' marque from Theo Fennell and I believe her collar stud and chain combos are stocked in b store, so no doubt she is a name we will be hearing more from.
+++ Frances Wadsworth-Jones: her butterfly clips - mini flocked bulldog clips with butterly wing shaped clasps and her 10m chain of interlocking ants, each 1 cm long and crawling in unison, were simple but effective; she took home the Conran Foundation Award 2008, as well as The Goldsmiths' Company Precious Metals Bursary Award 2008.
Jahyun Rita Baek: had taken perspex, or something similar, which to me had the feel of a contemporary and man-made motehr of pearl, and used it in 2d, flat form to create 2d shapes, eg. circles to create spheres, and in turn used these as the parts of necklaces, earrings etc.
+++ Nathalie Perneel: created necklaces of hexagonal forms in such delicate silver wire that they were barely discernible and really quite beautiful in their fragility.
... so I have more or less highlighted every jewellery-related exhibitor - oops! - I have tried to be as succinct as possible, but there was lots to get excited about!
//// Printmaking, Photography and the rest:
First thing about this, which I have noted at a few galleries recently, is how much photorealism is coming to the fore. Am sure that the Modern Painting at The Hayward may have had some hand in this, but there seems to be a desire for very tangible image-making? There were, again, so many artists of interest, but I tried to narrow it down by looking primarily at the figurative, and at the photography:::
+++ Dawn Woolley: I loved her self-portraiture; her work involved taking photographs of herself, which she then printed human-sized and posed, with a person, in often provocative, or rather intimate, situations. Clever, witty and also well-executed.
+++ Roel Paredaens: liked the simplicity of these black and white studies.
+++ Ruth Murray: these were darkly atmospheric paintings which (in my mind) evoked Victorian b-list novels, The Woman In White and the rest, but were resolutely of here and now.
... so let's just say that there was lots to see. These things are so subjective, but I felt that it was a good show, worth the trip and felt inspired by these present and future designers. Looking forward to part two later this month, which will include footwear and fashion accessories, and - natch - to the fashion show this Thursday.
\\\\Okay, so really I should have got there a little earlier, as SHOW ONE is now closed (hope my little overview gave a small flavour of it anyhow), but there's more so in case you're interested:
&&&& RCA SHOW FASHION is open to the public June 11 (ticketed event though so don't forget to call in advance!)...
&&&& RCA SHOW TWO takes place June 24 to July 5 (except July 4, when is closed). This is the one which includes fashion accessories and footwear, textiles and all the graphic-y type subjects...
&&&& RCA SHOW SCULPTURE is June 25 to July 5. Self-explanatory what you would see.
//// apart from SHOW FASHION, these are free events; SHOW TWO and FASHION are at KENSINGTON GORE; SCULPTURE is at Howie Street in Battersea. I guess check out the the RCA website for all the info.

my-wardrobe enlists guest presenters for my-tv

I was excited to hear from a great friend, Jess Wood, In Style's Fashion Features Writer, that she is going to be one of the guest presenters doing a weekly stint on my-wardrobe.com's new my-tv channel. She's been doing a fair bit of presenting of late and has absolutely the right personality to make engaging viewing; she'll be in good company, with Grazia's Stefan Lindemann and The Times' Alice Olins also offering their insider tips.
////fabulous labels:
Two years or so on from its launch, my-wardrobe.com is proving a great online retailer, with a, exciting mix of designer labels. I am especially coveting the gold satin ruffle blouse by Gold Hawk, the blue sleeveless pussy bow blouse by Paul Smith and the Tara Jarmon black silk, bubble hem evening top. I also closely watched a dab Day blouse with an over-sized neck bow, but missed the boat, darn it!

Recycling fashion with under 11s

So late last week I scooted back to the West Country (Bristol, to be precise) to catch up with family and friends for a few days, hence the break in updates. Not that Bristol is a fashion wasteland, you understand, just that, well, everybody needs a holiday every now and then.
/////recycled fashion workshop:
So while there, my nine year-old sister roped me into assisting on a recycled fashion workshop at her school. I was faced with 30 8-10 year-olds, all dead keen to get stuck into garment creation using recycled everything - from tee-shirts and leggings, to carrier bags and cardboard, to off-cuts of ripstop nylon (courtesy of Cameron Balloons, no doubt) and bubblewrap. It reminded me very much of art foundation, and was thoroughly enjoyable. I was able to tell the class that some of the best designers were creating fashion on the catwalk from unusual materials - Gareth Pugh sprang to mind - and that they were dead on trend.
The kids got stuck in and was impressed by the potential garb that could be created, given that the only tools were three staplers, and reels and reels of sellotape. I myself fashioned a lantern skirt dress from a black bin liner, with a gold cigarette paper bow, topped of with a yellow carrier bag hood (cut up the sides of the bag, arms through the handles et voila!). We finished the day with a shambolic attempt at catwalk style stomping to White Stripes...
////Charlotte's Threads:
On subject of recycled fashion, while in Bristol I caught up with a lovely young designer called Charlie, who has her own, predominantly children's, fashion company, making clothes entirely from other people's cast-offs. While the idea of taking a garment and reworking it with applique and cut work isn't obviously new, her clothes are really fresh and fun. She uses a lot of denim as the basis, and then cuts up bright jersey and cotton materials to create bold animal shapes on the garments.
//// Dressmaking:
And finally, was tramping the charity shops of south Bristol and very excited to find a 1970s pattern for a fab pussy bow blouse; am looking forward to making that one up.

Switching on to SATC - the pilot...

Given SATC fever is taking over a cinema near you, TV has inevitably jumped on the bandwagon and is showing every episode since time began. Nothing so simple as just showing in consecutive order, Paramount is running top ten SATC episodes, presented by a glossed-up-for-LA Cat Deeley. Last night, while appropriately enough knocking back the vino with an old friend, we happened across the pilot episode - I guess that would be what, circa 1997? Feel free to correct me...
So it definitely had the hallmarks of a successful franchise, but my goodness didn't everyone look bad in the 90s? SJP's make-up, as Carrie Bradshaw was that harsh, slightly grey 'real' skin look which I remember sporting very well - slightly dusky pink but neutral lipstick, eyes a little too dark, too made-up. The characters had a disconcerting habit of talking to the camera, rather than the current mode of thinking aloud, which is much more straighforward(!). The where were the clothes? There was some highs and lows, but overall the pilot didn't really push it as hard as in the full-on series. I imagine if a SATC uber fan were reading this they would be able to tell me the history of the styling - perhaps that is something to revise today! But overall, it was rawer than it became, but I think that is perhaps a natural progression as the characters' lifestyles evolved and moved forward. I think I am officially a rebirthed SATC fan and will have to get myself a DVD boxed set and a free weekend, and really settle down to study hard!

'Carried away' to the SATC 'Yes' camp

Like all good fashionistas, I have been awaiting the launch of Sex And The City: The Movie, with bated breath. If I am honest, I was never a screaming, on-my-knees SATC fan, but the later series did hook me in, and let's face it, the clothes do make good eye candy.
Committing myself to a popcorn supper and cocktails to wash it down, I met with a good friend at the Clapham Picture House after work last night. I wasn't sure what to expect, but in all honesty had set my expectation levels fairly low as wasn't in the mood to be disappointed. Let's just say that I had to hold off blogging my thoughts til this morning as I felt such a rush of euphoria, and such love for all my friends upon leaving the cinema that I was concerned I might gush off the page...
So I lost count of the wardrobe changes within the first ten minutes of the film, and just resigned myself to sitting back and letting the film wash over me. So, as I also don't want to give any plotline away, this won't be a minute-by-minute breakdown, but I will say that it is well worth a viewing, despite the occasional schmaltzy elements. The publicity machine at HBO managed the pre-publicity well as, really, nothing has been given away - the story still has everything to play for and although you kind of guess how it will all pan out at the end fairly early on, at no point to you feel cheated by the path they all take.
No doubt you will have read some reviews suggested the protagonists - all female, all successful, all powerful, all viviacious - are past it, or not gorgeous enough. In my view, the power and strength of what these four characters (Carrie, Samantha, Charlotte, Miranda) represent - a friendship bond unbroken by any of the men or events which circle around them, is too frightening for some people to contemplate. The fact that SJP and the others played a pivotal role in getting the series and then the film off the ground, and the fact that they rarely play the media game how some might like them too is probably more scary still. I say that these characters are, in fact, inspiring; who says that once you're 40 you're past it? If that's the case then 50% of women might as well give up now. I refuse to believe that in a decade's time I can no longer drink, dress up, have a career or whatever I want to do because people will frown on me. I choose to see some elements of the SATC characteristics as inspiring and hope that when I am in my 40s I will be still as pro-active and look that good because of, not in spite of, my age.
Writing in the Guardian, Hadley Freeman very succinctly wrote about the issues around Sarah Jessica Parker and the SATC franchise - far more eloquently put than my minor rant here - and the fact that the media and people in general seem so prepared to vilify her for her looks or whatever, but in fact why aren't we celebrating the success of a child-turned-adult actress, with her feet on the ground, a autonomous career and a fab wardrobe to boot?
Something to think about anyway. I will end by saying again that it is well worth a trip - 5/5 at least - and, beyond but including the fashion, see what questions it throws up in your mind.

Helena Christensen, Alice Dellal and/or Paz de la Huerta Agent Provocateur's new 'face'(s)?

Every Agent Provocateur ad campaign inevitably provokes an instant reaction from the press, and if WWD is to believed (which, let's face it, it is), the luxe lingerie label's next campaign should lead to the usual slew of excitable reports and end up being topped off by an ultra-glam, tongue in cheek party.
So, Kate Moss is now starring in the AP bridal campaign, shot by Nick Knight (my sister randomly met his mum-in-law at a party the other day, not esp. relevant but had to get that in somewhere, six degrees of separation and all that), meaning that there is a high profile face lined up for the mainline collection. According to WWD, supermodel/photographer/entrepreneur/ superwoman Helena Christensen, gossip page fave (Br)It Girl and model Alice Dellal and New Yorker Paz de la Huerta are in the running for the new campaign, breaking September. I imagine that, in fact, it has already been shot, and that it is either all three, one of the three or none at all, but it will be interesting to see who it turns out to be, and whether they can sustain the same reaction - although how hard can it be? Gorgeous woman wearing very sexy undies writhing around looking sexual etc etc... maybe they'll surprise us with a different approach next season.
Whatever the choice, and however they choose to present their protagonist, the Agent Provocateur campaigns take full advantage of the power of the web - the Kate Moss 'Miss X' camapign of a couple of years ago, shot by Mike Figgis, crashed the lingerie label's server, such was the interest. We are just a bunch of fashion perves, really, aren't we?? Will watch to see which of the rumours are true...

Gorgeous Ghanaian print dresses from Sika

Out and about at Proud in Camden for the Glenmorangie/Mike Figgis Five Senses exhibition launch a few weeks ago, I espied a friend of mine in a ultra-fabulous party frock. It was a structured 50s-style number with a scoop neck and belted waist - I guess in a lot of ways pretty traditional - what made it really stand out was its vibrant green and navy Ghanaian print, which added a welcome twist (and let's remember, African prints are one of the hot trends of the moment). She proudly owned it to be an ethical number, from a London-based designer label, Sika. Let's just say, I had recently made an African print dress using a West African print and a vintage Vogue pattern - it looked great, but this dress put it firmly in my mind's corner, in spite of my affection for it.
Coincidentally, the very next day trotted along to a showcase of ethical fashion, and saw a whole rackful of dresses which I knew straightaway must be the same designer, and made a beeline to check them out. The same collection (for autumn/winter 08) had previously been exhibited at LFW as part of the Estethica initiative, and I guess should hit the shops around July/August time. For the record, Sika is designed by Phyllis Taylor, who hails from Ghana but now resides here in the Big Smoke; she sources all the fabrics in local Ghanaian markets and they are manufactured by the local tailors. The pieces really do have that extra wow! factor and are worth hunting down - I think that, among other places, the Laden Showroom on Brick Lane is one of the best stockists of the Sika label.

Hemp boys THTC introduce bamboowear for the ladies

Met a guy called Gav Lawson recently, who with his bro set up a hemp t-shirt label, THTC, about ten years ago - ie. well before the current ethical bandwagon (not that I'm knocking the current ethical move - is all great and to the better good). Til now, they've mainly been geared up to create tees for the guys; the collection has a very urban feel with political slant - new designs include anti-corporate, evil MuckDonald images by graphic designer/illustrator Mau Mau.
BUT they have started expanding the options for women, made in organic bamboo (softer than hemp), including some neat polo shirts, twisted racer back vests, tee shirts, and hoodies. I spent a good bit of time convincing him to develop them into shirt dresses and vest dresses, and push the designs a little harder, which he either heard or didn't (maybe I was overdoing it?), so watch this space as you never know! Worth a look if you want to buy some more conscientious basics.

Marios Schwab is hosting sample sale

One last post before I rest my weary fashion head for the evening - this blogging is like crack (not that I'd actually know that it is, or not, in truth). Very excited about prospect of Marios Schwab sample sale tomorrow and Wednesday, in E8, which is my first London stomping ground. Remembered as I was leaving Burberry that I was intending on allocating budget to this but forgot in the frenzy - will have to stretch the original spend schedule somewhat.
So far 738 people have been invited via Facebook - so I reckon worth getting there early as poss - kicks off 10.30am. Don't forget you'll need real-life reddies as thay're wanted cold hard cash if poss!

Stocking up on Burberry classics

If Burberry were still chav, I would be chavved up right now, as spent a good 90 minutes of my day rummaging the bargains at the Burberry sample sale, facilitated to my very good friend on the inside. I have a theory that it is high time that I started investing in pieces - part of my careful consumption drive - and so invested in seven great, versatile 'classics' (not classics in a boring way, mind).
It occurs to me as I write this that I started blogging with the flagrant claim that I am not a shopper. And yet in two days, I have highlighted the purchase on one designer dress, a high street special shift dress and two pairs of pricey tights; and now two pairs of trousers, a pair of city shorts, a military-style blouse, a swing jacket, a pleated skirt, and a lush, cosy cashmere jumper. This wouldn't be so bad, except that I am already thinking that I need some new undies...
Sample sales are quite simply, the best. One the one hand it's the dregs that no-one wants any more, but in fact it's an opportunity to find often one-off pieces that you know you won't see elsewhere. Am not sure I quite achieved that today, but have done on so many other occasions, they are well worth it. Just now need to remember not to wear it all consecutively or might look like I am a new brand spokesperson!

Trapeze silhouette - maternity look only?

It seems fitting that on the day that Yves Saint Laurent passed away I purchased my Zara trapeze dress. Upon taking the helm at House of Dior, following Christian Dior's death, Yves Saint Laurent introduced the trapeze silhouette to the post war New Look mix and the rest you know.
But when speaking to my friend who has recently given birth (to the most gorgeous wee boy!), I mentioned it would be perfect for post-pregnancy belly. Big mistake. I am now paranoid that actually when I wear said frock I actually look like I have something to hide and am considering packing it away until such a time that I actually need something of that nature. I have a feeling that rather than the silhouette though, it is my paranoia as am certain it looked chic and non-belly before the thought spilled into my mind. I think I am blathering now so will stop.
Although... on subject of post-pregnancy, the same friend was lamenting the lack of good (meaning stylish) nursing bras - had to point her in direction of Freya's lovely new style - black with caramel pin-dots and lace - style name escapes me but it's worth a look, boulder holder it ain't.

RIP Yves Saint Laurent, 1936-2008

I am a very bad fashion blogger. Wake up this morning and first thing I hear - Yves Saint Laurent has died, last night, aged 71. But instead I hit the blog and witter on about some dress I bought in Zara yesterday.
That just does not show dedication, missy.
So, three minutes silence now for Yves Saint Laurent, one of the leading lights of French fashion, and a founder of modern fashion as we know it today...
I am not going to wax lyrical about his influence, his talent and all the rest - I think that is known. All I will say is that it hadn't been for people like him recognising the potential of democratising good fashion for the masses I might never have found that Zara dress in the first place. The high street would be a much duller place.

Opaque Falke tights - in June???

Ahead of yesterday's trip to the hippy fest in Regent's Park (see previous posting), I scooted into Zara as have all manner of grown-up type occasions coming up and have to look the part, especially as all involve fashion peeps. I am not a big shopper - certainly I think careful consumption is always at the forefront of my mind - to me, it makes sense to buy carefully so that the pieces picked up aren't throwaway, colourful additions to landfill in a few months' time. I try to buy as ethically as possible, and as well as Fairtrade, organic and the rest, to me that means buying pieces with longevity; classics that can be twisted. I was very pleased with myself, as picked up a 100% cotton trapeze shift dress in black - machine washable so no dry cleaning required - very simple with narrow sleeveless top half, two tucks at the neckline and pockets (which, as previously mentioned are a current favourite of mine!). Am going to be wearing them with some matt, 50 denier Falke tights in 'anthracite', a moody steel grey, as the weatherman is predicting downpour. If there was an offical fan club for Falke I would seriously consider joining as they keep so well - totally worth paying twice the price of your average hosiery. Of course, yes, I am aware that it's June (although the sky doesn't seem to be), but I think that opaques can just about be done still - let's face it, better than flesh coloured numbers... That said, I am looking forward to being able to sport bare legs with no fear of goosebumps and mottled purple thighs!!

Fashion-Conscience crops up at Camden Green Fair

Dithering around Noho on Sunday afternoon happened upon a signpost for the Camden Green Fair and Bike Fest, an annual festival dedicated to all things green, taking place on Cumberland Green in Regent's Park. Thinking it would be perfect preparation for Glastonbury (and let's face it, a pleasant stroll in the park win hands down against weekend shopping on Oxford Street, easy), trotted up Portland Place to check it out.
The pervasive scent of summer grass and damp mud certainly cemented the festival feeling. While munching our Spicy Mexican burgers from the vegan/veggie stall which seems to make it to every festival going (I have been known to harangue them at the now defunct Bristol Community Festival for runnng out of said choice), we checked out a live music stage, a Mad Hatter's sustainable tea party, stalls, learnt about home composting(!!), and perused plants from Herbal Haven - which didn't have enough pennies for at the time, but apparently can be ordered via their website. There was a vibey, deep drumming band entertaining a troupe of 40s-style tea dancers - unusual combo, but hey, it worked!
The whole event was kick-starting the three-week Love London Festival, a series of events all over the Big Smoke designed to encourage us all to live a little greener. I learnt this when their cutesy hearts-and-butterflies branding on their stand pulled me in like a satellite crashing to Earth. I am such a girl. As a real bicycle aficionado, I signed my I Move London pledge to cycle, walk and use public transport more - well, okay that's kind of what I do anyway, but it doesn't hurt to let the powers that be know, huh?
But my intended focus of this post was to mention that while traipsing the regulation clothing stalls (retching at the Peruvian cloaks - sorry Peru) I happened upon a friend of mine who last year quit her job as a celeb editor on a top women's glossy to pursue her dream of setting up an ethical fashion venture. You may have come across her website, called Fashion-Conscience - I know I keep seeing mentions in Grazia, Marie Claire and all the best titles. All the labels she stocks are ethical and often organic or recycled (there's a key so that you can see clearly what its attributes are - handy) - too many labels to choose one, but among the highlights of the options, I love the gorge vintage jewellery by Rachel Essex, especially the kingfisher and heart combos; breezy, shiny Ciel; slick, sexy tailoring of Danish label Noir, who have launched ethical line Blaak and whose LFW show in Feb was ultra glam; and of course the tongue-in-cheek Pants To Poverty, which are a great alternative to sweatshop designer briefs.

Discovering Tom Salama, Delaila and Anedoti.com

So right now I am totally coveting my new 'Orita' dress by Israeli designer Tom Salama, who is based in Tel Aviv. I've not been there myself, but have heard it's gained itself a reputation as a party town, and this dress is so perfect for a party! Again, a pic would explain it in a an instant, but I will attempt to do it justice with the written word. It's a navy, luxe jersey body-con number, with a drop waist, heavily pleated lantern skirt with hidden pockets. Pockets are one of my favourite things in a dress right now - is there any better way to show insoucience? Stopping just above the knee, the leg exposure is balanced with a sailor cut neckline (high and square), and there is heavy pleating across the bust, which adds interest. In short, it's lush. Goes very well with a good and high platform wedge, or equally with gladiator sandals. I found the dress in the UK at a fab pop-up shop on Cork Street, hosted by online boutique Anedoti - check it out for under the radar designers from across the globe, as well as the own label collection - simple, silk shift dresses and separates in jewel bright colours inspired by Rajastan - just gorgeous!
While in the store also got hooked on statement jewellery from up and coming label Delaila, and its vivacious designer Laila Aitken - think perspex baubles combined with laser cut, geometric metals. The US-born, Notting Hill-based designer Laila set up her own company after persuading a family friend and jewellery manufacturer for the likes of CHANEL, no less, that her idea was a go-er. Fair play on that - always excited by entrepreneurial spirit! The name Delaila was inspired by her mother's fashion boutique Samson and Delilah, as well as being a play on her own name. As well as being stocked on Anedoti, Delaila is stocked in Erickson Beamon, Harvey Nichols and Joseph. She also told be about a website called Little Jewellery Boutique London - which am going to be checking out very soon - watch this space...!

Summer toes with OPI, Revlon and Zoya...

So last week I was feeling rather pro as was sporting my lush Zoya manicure, courtesy of the lovely beauty ladies at The Spa at Bluebird in Chelsea. I have to admit to having stumbled across the team at an event, rather than being incredibly in the know; apparently it's all about word of mouth for them, so I guess I am simply adding to the mix. Had my nails filed short and rounded - pretty natural - and then a fab pillarbox red varnish which was kind of grown up, without being too grown-up, if you know what I mean. I was doubly excited when I realised that it was Zoya too - it definitely seems to be flavour of the month in nail technicians' circles at the mo.
So on returning home, I realised that the slick nails were seriously being let down by unkempt feet. So we weren't talking horn toenails by any stretch, but they definitely needed some TLC to bring them up to the mark. Luckily, perennial fave Revlon Red varnish - a staple of my beauty drawer - stepped up to the challenge quite successfully, thank you. That shade and finish (kind of creamy matt) is a true contemporary beauty classic. Also came in handy for the inevitable chips that always ruin manicures, always sooner than you'd like. Oh, to be a lady of leisure with no need to use your hands for anything more strenuous than lifting a flute of bubbly to your lips!
But anyway, back to my point (kind of!). So this week, with the promise of June being the best month of the summer (apparently its what they're all talking about in meteorological circles...) decided time to try some more summer-y shades for an at-home pedi. Am probably well behind a season, but dusted off a great lilac-pink-grey shade by OPI, something like the inside of seashells from the beach at Hayle, one from their 'India' colour collection - Get Me to The Taj on Time - which looks great - and even highlights my slightly non-existent tan...! Looks great with my brown and gold Moda in Pelle gladiator sandals. When have got far enough to work out how to upload the pics will do so for your delectation (if that word can apply to a pic of someone's feet!).